Cub Cadet RZT50 hydrogear slow on left side (2024)

I've got a 2008 RZT50 with 265 hours where the left side seems to be lacking power. I can get some minimal turning from it but if I push it forward it just groans. The right side seems fine. Upon inspection I found the cotter pin on the transmission release to be missing. This doesn't seem related to the problem since it was just floating and not being pulled forward to the release position. At any rate, putting in a new one didn't help at all. I then opened the hydrogear oil filler and discovered it didn't seem to have a full load of oil so I topped it off with about 1/2 quart of 20W-50 and went thru the bleeding procedure. It seemed to improve power slightly but not enough to make much difference. I also checked to make sure the brake was not engaged.

I've seen other posts about failed hydrogear on the left side so wonder if my number is up on this hydrogear. It also makes me wonder how much longer the right side is going to be working.

Is this typically something I can fix by taking it apart and cleaning or does it mean I need a new hydrogear? If new, is the dealer the best option or are there online places that are a good choice?

Thanks in advance for any troubleshooting or repair suggestions.

Glenn

I called my local dealer to inquire about pricing on hydrogear repair/replacement and he suggested I instead try replacing the transmission drive belt. This fixed my weak left side problem! He said that for some reason the left side always seems to start slipping when the belt needs replacement.

Bottom line is to make sure you try replacing the transmission drive belt if you suspect a hydrogear problem on the left side.

Of course, replacing the belt was quite a chore. My first problem was the recommended technique to use a 3/8 square drive wrench to move the tension pulley would not work because they pulley was overlapping the whole so there was no way to get a wrench into the hole. I ended up having to use two wrenches arranged in such a way I could apply pressure on the pulley to release tension. The 2nd problem was the PTO clutch had a bracket that kept it from turning and the bracket was welded so the belt would not slip over it. Ended up needing a 5/8" impact wrench to loosen the bottom bolt enough for it to drop down below the bracket. Without the impact wrench, the only resistance to releasing the bolt was engine compression.

Guys, do a search (in this forum) on something like "weak left side" - I've seen and replied to a few here, the left side drive problem is pretty well known. My RZT 50 has done it at least once, also ONE of my Hydro's crapped out with less than 50 hours (fortunately still under warranty at the time) - good thing, since I've not seen them for less than $400+.

The reason belt affects left side first is the way the belt wraps around both hydros and the belt tensioner. Also, at least SOME of the RZT's the manual tells you to put a 1/2" breaker bar into the square hole in the tensioner arm in order to get the new belt on - apparently they changed the pulley size AFTER those holes were punched, and it can't be done. I sacrificed a 3/4" drive socket (cheap HF set) that I'd never use, cut two notches out of its side walls so it would fit the L-shaped tension arm, and it made things really easy.

Pretty sure I posted about this, you might try searching under my screen name in this forum, it should pop up... Steve

If you have trouble finding those threads, ask and I'll see if I can help - fighting my old Case backhoe ATM, along with 100* temps. I can also take a pic of the modified socket tensioner tool if anybody's interested...